From the vertiginous perches of the city’s high-floor hotspots, Tokyo at night is a Blade Runner fantasy, a sci-fi vista dense with glittering towers spreading to the horizon in every direction; on the street, by day, it is a palimpsest of traditional culture and 21st-century consumerism.

Silent subway trains run on schedule, Hello Kitty and Louis Vuitton are cult idols, and sleek vending machines, hawking wares from cigarettes to green tea (and occasionally knickers) are at every corner. The city’s iconic backdrop, Hatchiko Square, located at the heart of the trendy Shibuya entertainment district, bursts with neon-clad buildings, garish video screens, giant billboards and houses the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing. It’s Times Square on steroids–though eerily quiet. But just around the bend, often when you least expect it, are sanctuaries of perfect calm. Traditional Japanese landscape gardens hide among skyscrapers and the bells of Buddhist shrines sound in the busiest pockets of the city. Through its kaleidoscope of contractions, Tokyo distills the past, present and future of Eastern and Western cultures into a crystallized form of pure urban experience.

Sleep

Despite a recent raft of ultra-luxe newcomers and its less than convenient location, the Park Hyatt Hotel, made famous by Sofia Coppola’s Lost in Translation, remains the best hotel in Tokyo. Guest rooms and public spaces are transcendentally elegant and serenely lit, with dramatic views of Tokyo and Mt. Fuji. The top-floor swimming pool and gym has 360 degree views through 20 foot floor-to-ceiling windows. The Claska, Tokyo’s only true boutique hotel, has just reopened after an upgrade to several of its 15 individually designed rooms, and doubles as a clubhouse for Tokyo’s art, fashion and design set. The very Japanese Excel Tokyu Shibuya, conveniently located on top of the Shibuya subway station, has tiny but efficient and inexpensive rooms with helicopter views. The business-oriented Four Seasons Maranouchi is sleek, understated and well located—near the central Tokyo train station for links to the airport and beyond. Also worth considering are the recently opened “six star” hotel towers from international brands Mandarin Oriental, Peninsula, and Ritz Carlton.

Eat

With ten times as many restaurants as New York, and three times as many Michelin stars as Paris, Tokyo is the ultimate foodie destination. However, many of the city’s upscale Japanese restaurants are more style than substance, and the finest Japanese meals are found in tiny semi-private establishments typically inaccessible to the unaccompanied foreigner. For the most authentic dining experience, seek out moderately priced restaurants known for excellence in a particular specialty.

Kaikaya, a boisterous Okinawa-style seafood restaurant in Shibuya, is very popular with foreigners (gaijin), but deservedly so. Toricho, a yakitori restaurant located beneath a Roppongi strip club, is a celeb favourite for its mouth-watering skewers and lively ambiance. Maisen is the top choice for tonkatsu (deep fried breaded pork cutlet) because of its special black pork and setting— a pre-war public bathhouse.

Even mediocre sushi bars in Japan are superior to the finest available elsewhere. Sushi Daiwa, at the famous Tsukiji fish market, serves the world’s freshest sushi, and is worth the two hour wait in a single file line. An ideal lunch choice, Sushi No Midori has superb, moderately priced sushi in a setting far less formal than many of Ginza’s revered but intimidating sushi bars; be prepared to wait on line again (blankets are thoughtfully provided to patrons queuing in winter). For a formal reservations-required sushi dinner, book counter seats at Sushiko, which refrigerates its raw fare until the moment it is sliced by one of the master chefs.

Ramen is to Tokyo what the burger is to New York, with at least as many configurations and outlets. Far superior to their Manhattan outpost is the Ebisu branch of Ippudo Ramen, part of an upscale chain hailing from Kyushu in western Japan. Ramen Shinatatsu in Shinagawa is a mini ramen theme park, with fully operational replicas of seven of the best ramen shops culled from across the nation. (NB: The rule of thumb in ramen shops is to order the first (ichiban) soup on the menu, and don’t neglect an accompanying plate of gyoza dumplings.)

For a casual meal to go, Park Hyatt Delicatessen sells meticulously packed picnics that are ideal for lunch in the nearby Shinjuku Gyoen Park. The Mitsukoshi Food Hall is a subterranean gourmet wonderland beneath the Mitsukoshi department store in Ginza, where dozens of vendors display and sell perfect-looking foods of every variety–many offer free samples.

If an expense account dinner is in order, consider choosing a cuisine other than Japanese. The New York Grill, serving impeccable steaks and seafood from the upper floors of the Park Hyatt, is one of the city’s most popular and prestigious restaurants. Chugoku Hanten’s fine Chinese food is beloved by many of Japan’s elite politicians and powerbrokers. For the ultimate culinary indulgence, Joel Robuchon’s Tokyo trio are known as some of the finest restaurants in the world.

Shop

Tokyo is the retail capital of the world—a megapolis-as-mall whose incomprehensible volume and variety of stores and products will exhaust even the most depraved shopaholic.

What distinguishes many of Tokyo’s luxury brand flagships is superstar architecture. One of the most impressive contributions to this phenomenon is the Prada “epicenter,” designed by Herzog and de Meuron, in Tokyo's ultra-chic Aoyama neighbourhood. Toyo Ito’s gorgeous multi-storey boutique for JP Tod’s is another highlight, located on Omotesando Boulevard, the Champs-Elysees of Tokyo. The translucent glass facade of Renzo Piano’s Hermes in Ginza allows the building to glow from within at night, like a Japanese lantern.

In contrast to these brand temples, Tokyo is equally blessed with a plethora of innovative boutiques and unique shopping experiences. Perhaps the best example of this is Tokyu Hands, an encyclopedic purveyor of hardware, appliances, and materials for homeowners and hobbyists as well as sundries (chopsticks, curtains) for the everyman; more manageable for tourist shoppers is their new Ginza Hands location. Postalco’s top-quality notebooks, stationary, wallets and bags are hidden on the second floor of an anonymous Kyobashi office building, but well worth a visit. For children of any age or nationality, Kiddyland is possibly the world’s most enjoyable toy store; opened in 1946, its six floors are bursting with toys not available anywhere else. No Muji fan should miss the celebrated brand’s flagship Muji Yurakacho, which features exclusive products, a Muji café and even low-cost bicycle rentals.

Loveless is the Collette of Tokyo, carrying over 100 progressive brands and designers. Be sure to visit the Darkside Bar in the basement, where customers enjoy free drinks while perusing the racks in the vampire-like den. Loveless’ sister store, Colour By Numbers, offers a more futuristic ambiance–fluorescent lights, white marble floors, tricked-out 80s boom boxes and beautifully tailored pieces from indie Japanese design darlings. Fashionistas should not miss Opening Ceremony’s new shop-in-shop at Seibu-Movida. And the La Foret boutique tower is ground zero for “Harajuku girl” fashion, but more useful for people watching than purchases.

Local fashion insiders head to the more subdued but equally stylish Daikanyama, a leafy low-rise neighbourhood chock-full of quirky boutiques and sidewalk cafes. Big names have planted their Tokyo outposts here alongside the indie shops, including Vivienne Tam, Paul Smith, and Martin Margiela. Tokyo’s arty set congregates along Nakameguro’s picturesque Aobadai canal, lined with cherry trees as well as funky shops and cafes such as the Cowbooks vintage bookstore and the indispensable APC Outlet Store. For second-hand clothing, vintage 70s items and animé toys and record shops, locals flock to trendy Shimokitazawa, the most sought-after neighbourhood for young Tokyoite hipsters.

For photography buffs, a visit to Map Camera, Tokyo’s largest second-hand camera store, is a must. Those willing to brave the crowds and bargain with vendors in Akihabara, also known as Electronic Town, will find themselves in gadget heaven. The Sony Building, next to the Ginza subway station, is an engrossing showroom of new and forthcoming Sony products, as well as a duty free shop (don’t visit without your passport).

Play

Once known for Western-style mega-clubs, Tokyo’s nightlife scene has matured into a warren of alluring dens and underground hotspots. Le Baron, an outpost of the Parisian hotspot, is the latest addition to the list of hidden clubs. Located behind an unmarked door in an alleyway off of Omotesando, the tiny club is every bit as glamourous as its Paris flagship, boasting celebrities, fashionistas, live performances and plexiglass booths, as well as the adjacent Amour karaoke lounge. Hidden bars are not a new trend—they have been a staple of local culture for decades. Shinjuku’s infamous and endangered Golden Gai district is home to 200 nomiya (elaborately themed counter bars with fewer than a dozen seats) where local intellectuals gather to drink and philosophise. Albatross and La Jetée are the most foreigner-friendly nomiya, the latter owned by a Francophile film buff whose Nouvelle Vague obsession is evident from the bar’s decor and soundtrack. Aoyama’s Bar Rage is located in a dimly lit and unmarked third-floor space; the elevator opens to reveal a mixology wonderland where bartenders concoct intricate fresh fruit-based cocktails unique to each guest.

Milk, in tiny Ebisu, features live performances by punk, hardcore and hip hop bands on its main stage and a variety of lounge areas, including a defunct commercial kitchen and a Clockwork Orange-themed room. Artists and intellectuals meet and mingle at SuperDeluxe, a Roppongi venue where installations, live performances and “pecha kucha” presentations encourage the flow of creative juices. For live jazz and a heavy dose of Big Apple swank, New York Bar is Tokyo’s most glamourous destination, with dramatic cityscape views and the most extensive selection of American wines in Japan.

Art-Out

Gallery Koyanagi, in an exquisite concrete space designed by Hiroshi Sugimoto, is owned by his wife, Atsuko Koyanagi, who was instrumental in bringing together the young gallerists that kick-started the city’s contemporary art scene in the 1990s. In addition to regular exhibitions by some of the world’s top artists, including Marlene Dumas, Olafur Eliasson, and Sugimoto, the gallery represents a roster of Japan’s most promising young talents. The closet-sized Gallery Q features provocative work by emerging Asian artists. Mizuma Gallery in Nakameguro promotes a stable of hot Japanese painters and photographers, including Makato Aida, Izima Kaoru, Akira Yamaguci, and Tomoko Konoike. SCAI the Bathhouse has a similar and equally strong roster.

Attractions

The Meiji Shrine should be the first stop of any Tokyo neophyte. Its 175 forested acres, enclosing a Shinto shrine and lovely gardens, are a magical oasis just steps from hyperactive Shibuya. Weekend afternoons are the best time to visit—parents bring kimono-clad toddlers and extended families pose for formal wedding portraits.

The superb Hara Museum boasts a permanent collection of international contemporary art and consistently strong shows in a charming 1920s residence. The MOMA-affiliated Mori Art Museum is located on the 53rd floor of an immense skyscraper, making it the world’s highest. Mori’s appeal isn’t limited to its excellent programme of international exhibitions and high-tech installations; it also connects to the Tokyo City View “skydeck,” providing breathtaking views of the city and a champagne bar. For a more traditional experience, visit the Tokyo National Museum, the oldest and largest museum in the city, with over 89,000 items on view. To experience a few moments of serenity during an Aoyama shopping spree, stop by the Nezu Institute whose small but exquisite collection of traditional art and ceramics is surrounded by tranquil terraced gardens.

Ask your concierge if sumo tournaments are in session at the Kogugikan stadium, and request box seats (actually floor pads for sitting cross legged on a private platform) for a not-to-be-missed experience complete with bento boxes and tea service.

Address Book

Sleep

The Park Hyatt Hotel, 3-7-1-2 Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
+81 3 5322 1234
www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com

The Claska, 1-3-18 Chuo-cho, Meguro-Ku
+81 3 5773 9667
www.claska.com

The Excel Tokyu Shibuya, Shibuya Mark City Building, 1-12-2 Dogenzaka
+81 3 5457 0109
www.tokyohotelsjapan.com

The Four Seasons Maranouchi, Pacific Century Place, 1-11-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda
+81 3 5222 7222
www.fourseasons.com

The Mandarin Oriental, 2-1-1 Nihonbashi, Muromachi
+81 3 3231 2920
www.mandarinoriental.com

Peninsula, 1-8-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda
+81 3 62270 2888
www.peninsula.com

Ritz Carlton, 9-7-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku
+81 3 3423 8000
www.ritzcarlton.com

Eat

Kaikaya, 23-7 Maruyamacho, Shibuya-ku
+81 3 3770 0878
www.kaikaya.com

Toricho, 8-6-22 Ginza, Chuo-ku
+81 3 3571 4650

Maisen, Jingumae 4
+81 3 3470 0071
www.mai-sen.com

Sushi Daiwa, 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku
+81 3 3547 6807

Sushi No Midori, Ginza Corridor, 7-6-12 Ginza, Chuo-ku
+81 3 5568 1212

Ippudo Ramen, minami ikebukuro 2-26-10
+81 3 6907 8305

Ramen Shinatatsu, Takanawa 3-26-20
+81 3 5475 7020
www.shinatatsu.com

Park Hyatt Delicattesen, 3-7-1-2 Nishi Shinjuku
+81 3 5322 1234

Mitsukoshi Food Hall, 4-6-16 Ginza, Chuo-ku
+81 3 5562 1111
www.mitsukoshi.co.jp

New York Grill, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku
+81 3 5323 3458
www.parkhyatttokyo.com

Shop

Prada, 5-2-6 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku
www.prada.com

JP Tod’s in Omotesando, 5-15 Jingumae, Shibuya
+ 81 3 6419 2055
www.tods.com

Hermes in Ginza, 5-4-19 Ginza, Chuo-ku
+81 3 3289 6811

Tokyu Hands, 12-18 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku
+81 3 5489 5111
www.tokyu-hands.co.jp

Ginza Hands, Gate 5F-9F in the Maronnier Gate Building, 2-2-14 Ginza
+81 3 3538 0109
www.ginza.tokyu-hands.co.jp

Postalco, 4F, 2-2-18 Kyobashi, Chuo-ku
+81 3 3281 3309
www.postalco.net

Kiddyland, 6-1-9 Jingu-mae, Shibuya-ku
+81 3 3409 3431
www.kiddyland.co.jp

Muji Yurakucho, Marunouchi 3-8-3
+81 3 5208 8241
www.muji.co.jp

Loveless, 3-17-11 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku
+81 3 3401 2301

Colour By Numbers, now Loveless Daikanyama, 20-23 Daikanyama-cho, Shibuya-ku
+81 3 3770 1991

Opening Ceremony, Seibu Movida Building, 21-1 Udagawa Cho
www.openingceremony.com

La Foret, 1-11-6 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku
+81 3 3475 0411

Cowbooks Vintage Bookstore, 1-14-11 Aobadai, Meguro-ku
+81 3 5459 1747
www.cowbooks.jp

APC Outlet Store, 1-25-1 Aobadai, Meguro-ku
+81 3 3719 2921

Map Camera, 1-12-5, Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
www.mapcamera.com

Play

Le Baron, Aoyama Center Building BIF 3.8.40, Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku
+81 3 3408 3665
www.lebaron.jp

Albatross, 1-2-11 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
+81 3 3342 5758
www.alba-s.com

Le Jetee, 1-1-8 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku
+81 3 3208 9645
www.lajetee.net

Bar Rage, 3F Aoyama Jin & IT Bldg, 7-13-13 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku
+81 3 5467 3977
www.mixologist.co.jp

Milk, 1-13-3 Ebisu-Nishi

SuperDeluxe, B1F 3-1-25 Nishi Azabu, Minato-ku
+81 3 5412 0515
www.super-deluxe.com

New York Bar at the Park Hyatt Hotel, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1
+81 3 5323 3458
www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com

Art-Out

Gallery Koyanagi, Koyanagi Bldg. 8F, 1-7-5 Ginza, Chuo-ku
+81 3 3561 1896
www.gallerykoyanagi.com

Gallery Q, Kusumoto 17th Bldg. 3F, 1-14-12 Ginza
+81 3 3535 2524
www.galleryq.info

Mizuma Gallery, 2F Fujiya Bldg., 1-3-9 Kamimeguro, Meguro-ku
+81 3 3793 7931
www.mizuma-art.co/jp

SCAI Bathhouse, Kashiwayu-Ato 6-1-23 Yanaka, Taito-ku
+81 3 3821 1144
www.scaithebathhouse.com

Attractions

Meiji Shrine, 1-1 Kamizonocho Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku
+81 3 3379 5511

Hara Museum, 4-7-25 Kita-Shinagawa
+81 3 3445 0651
www.haramuseum.or.jp

Mori Art Museum, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Roppongi Hills Mori Tower, Minato-ku
+81 3 5777 8600
www.mori.art.museum.com

Tokyo City View, Tokyo National Museum, 13-9 Ueno Park, Taito-ku
+81 3 3822 111
www.tnm.jp

Nezu Institute, 6-5-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato
+81 3 3400 2536

Additional reporting by Sabine Heller and Serena Merriman