The balmy Bombay air is thick with the clanging puja bells, honking and trilling mobiles generated by 18 million souls. It's the slightly smoky, mysterious stuff of dreams—16th-century Portuguese traders and Victorian Brits glimpsed India from this Arabian Sea port; the latter's convoy constructed a 26 metre-high basalt arch, the Gateway to India, where they docked steamships. And modern Bombay, or Mumbai as it was officially renamed in 1994, is essentially a gateway: 40% of international flights to India touch down at Chhatrapati Shivaji Airport—a poorly-lit port into the country's frenetic financial and cultural heart. It is also a city with seemingly-banal 21st century urban markers—gleaming steel skyscrapers, ironic billboards, breakneck-pace fashion, and Page Three celebrity gossip—all that upon further inspection appears deliriously mad. Sing-song prayers are broadcast from 4am until midnight and children brush their teeth by the road, their reflections distorted in new BMW sedans.

Ideally, the transition to dizzying Mumbai will be made after a sound transcontinental sleep inside one of Jet Airways's new, totally private first class suites. For those headed, like most travellers, to South Bombay's Colaba, the next step is a hair-raising hour drive. The only remedy is to end up in a Heritage Suite at the Moorish Florentine-styled Taj Mahal Palace & Hotel. The Taj's flagship 565-room hotel complex is an self-contained institution that's home to nine restaurants, including Wasabi by Morimoto, a maze-like shopping arcade featuring Louis Vuitton and, upstairs, a fleet of personal butlers.There are other options too: India's first Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai near the airport in Worli, which is soon to be joined by the subcontinent's first Ritz-Carlton and a new Shangri-La.

From there, go on and embrace the madness. A block away and book-ended by coconut vendors, Colaba Causeway's sidewalk-crammed stalls stock cheap shopping delights, like sequin-bedecked leather slippers, kitschy-cool Bollywood tees and jute purses (Desi novices: bargain hard).

Then retreat to the four storey Jiva Spa at Taj Wellington Mews near Colaba Causeway. It boasts a crescent pool with views over three landscaped acres and six treatment rooms that offer a variety of treatments, of particular notes is a massage on the warm water hydrotherapy bed.

To escape further, mystery, madness, a giant sculpture and serenity await visitors at Elephanta Island, an hour's ride in a yacht from the Gateway docks (inquire inside the Taj). The ancient collection of awe-inspiring reliefs of Lord Shiva includes a celebrated 20-foot trimurti that depicts the god alternatively as creator, destroyer and preserver.

Dinner back on the mainland can be anything from garlic crab at shabby-but-beloved Trisha—R.W. Apple declared in a New York Times dispatch that it was worth the flight alone—to cilantro-crusted pomfret at Mahesh Lunch Home or a spicy thali at Khyber.

In truth, few cities hold as much mystery in 65 square kilometers. There are many ways to arrive, suites to hole up in and thalis to sample. But, better yet…fashion your own Mumbai with input from those who know the city best.

Tanya Dalton

The Pro
Greaves Travel, customizes itineraries for discerning clients that include private shopping expeditions and high society teas

I love the Patisserie at the Taj—they've got really good little Belgian chocolates—and the pool is the best in Bombay. At the Chor Bazaar I look for old vintage glass. One sells Venetian glass from the time of the Raj. For dinner I'd suggest something like pan-Asian at Seijo and the Soul Dish in Bandra—not many tourists go…it's mostly socialites.

Vineet Bhatia

The Chef
Michelin-starred chef at Rasoi in London, consults at Indus in Moscow, Indego in Dubai and Safran in Mauritius

Bombay has changed dramatically over the past six or seven years. It used to be only five-star hotels that had upscale restaurants. The new trend is these lounges with tapas and great cocktails. There are quite a few nice ones in Juhu, like Vie Lounge and Bar. In Juhu, I also go to Mahesh Lunch Home. They do fantastic butter prawns, lobster and crabs. It's similar to [seafood classic] Trishna, but that's a long trek from home. A classic meal? Khyber has fantastic North Indian food. It's been there at least 25 years. I order the lamb kebab, black dal and plain paratha. It is also a great people-watching place: there are industrialists, movie stars, producers, politicians and socialites. A guy called Bade Miya, which means "old master," sells kebabs behind the Taj at night. At 11pm, people get a lamb kebab, sit on their car bonnet and eat. I go to Indigo for the food—the crowd is a bonus. It's California-style: grilled prawns, salad, very good crème brulée.

Sharmistha Ray

The Art Insider
Director, Bodhi Art

It's my first time living in Bombay. I moved here from New York over two years ago to run the gallery. To tell you the truth, it reminded me of New York because it has the same vibrant energy. It's a city that keeps you on your toes. Bodhi is in Kala Ghoda, located bang across the street from the legendary Jahangir Gallery. It's something like a Chelsea. New galleries are coming up every day and old ones are relocating here—Chemould is here, Sakshi, ICA. There's a lot of excitement about young artists. I love the Museum Art Gallery, which is attached to the Prince of Wales Museum and next to the JOSS, a Parsi-owned fusion restaurant where a lot of parties happen. I also eat at Busaba, a nice thai-influenced place near the Taj hotel with a lounge downstairs. Shiro in Worli is good for Japanese and the Hard Rock Café next door is very popular right now.

I live in South Bombay and mostly stay here—commuting is a big problem—but I go to Bandra to shop in the market for amazing slippers and bags, with all kind of fabrics, a splurge of colour and designs. You can also get some of the best paani puri chaat at Elco Market; it's made with Bisleri, so it's safe for tourists. China House at the Grand Hyatt is a great place that opened last year.

Shaad Ali

The Filmmaker
Director of Bunty Aur Babli, the megahit Bollywood take on Bonny and Clyde

I have lived in Bombay for spurts now since 2001. I have always been a Juhu boy. I love the Marine Drive from the sea; the titles of Bunty Aur Babli opened on that vista. The entire sight feels like the "city of dreams"—you just want to reign one day. Bombay has some very nice Art Deco single screen theatres. Eros and Regal are the ones with comfortable seats. I see films in another theatre called Chandan in Juhu. It's at least fifty years old, and huge, with 1200 seats, long throw projection. I'ts a typical 70mm experience. For food I go anywhere from Wasabi, naan chaap off Mohammad Ali Road in Bohri Mohalla to butter chicken naan at Urban Tadka. Mostly I party at home, but I like the Hard Rock Café.

Pinakin Patel

The Aesthete
Interior designer and architect, owner of Pinakin Furnishings, pioneer resident of seaside Bombayite retreat Alibaug

I have a base in Malabar Hills, in South Bombay, but I moved in 2000 to live in harmony with nature in Alibaug. I draw upon ancient vastu energy, like feng shui, and use local green building techniques. I've built ten or twelve bungalows here for industrialists, artists and businessmen who want to experience the modern Indian aesthetic.

Shopping on a high street gets a bit boring with globalization. I don't know whether I'm in Singapore or Paris. Irrespective of the time of year, I take visitors to the markets of Mumbai. Chor Bazaar is full of little lanes and there is one called Mutton Street with amazing furniture and antiques. Go on Sunday morning and the spirit of a collector may be rewarded. Over a year I have collected a mismatched but beautiful dinner set. You get old 33 rpm records you grew up listening to, hurricane lamps, candelabras, Art Deco vases—Mumbai has such a strong Deco influence. For anyone who is inspired by nature, I go to Phool Gali, below Dadar station. Arrive at 5 am and the middle lane is so fragrant and overwhelming. Flowers are not in vases but threaded, which is an art that thrives in Mumbai. You can buy metres and metres of flowers for entertaining at home. For inspiration and a rush of adrenaline, I go to Abdul Rehman Street near Crawford Market. It's so alive when the merchants set up shop selling stationary, hardware, gold, food stores, junk. You go for the spectacle more than things to buy. For local flavours, I love Swati Snacks at Tardeo because for decades it has served consistently good Indian food. For haute cuisine, I go to Chef's Studio at the Taj Mahal Hotel, which is very exclusive because chef Hemant Oberoi decides whether he wants to accept your request and cooks live for a table of only eight people and an Italian sommelier.

Maithili Ahluwalia

The Lifestyle Guru
Owner and curator at Bungalow 8, a 4,000 square-foot furnishings emporium under Wankhede stadium; inherited good taste from a grandmother who designed for Chanel

We're selling vintage metal furniture right now and we stock some modern accessories. Our ceiling is under the steps of the stadium; the sheer oddity of the location drew me in. My mother Jamini Ahluwalia is the queen of costume jewellery and hers is only available at Bungalow 8. When I was growing up, we imported everything from chewing gum to shampoo. Now we are spoilt with choices of everything. Now one can find every conceivable flavour of chewing gum but also a number of international standard restaurants, bars and stores. For clothing, I shop at Courtyard, behind Colaba, which has a range of Delhi-based designers. For Manolo-esque slippers with bling and beading, I go to Oberoi.

Mehul Patel

The Scenester
Web entrepreneur and art collector who lives between Singapore and Mumbai

When friends visit, I make them drink coconut water on streets, everywhere. The most amazing dancing place used to be Insomnia, but due to the insane rush for luxury brands in Bombay they converted it into a boutique. There are hardly any good dancing places left, so we satisfy ourselves at Prive, a good place but suffocating if you don't smoke. Food? Everyone says Swati Snacks is a life changing experience. It is a mid-size veg restaurant where you must eat fada ni khichdi (spicy yellow rice with garlic flavoured curd) with freshly squeezed sugar cane juice and homemade orange ice cream.